Saturday, December 02, 2006

Kutna Hora, Anthropos Institute, spooky dead Capuchin monks, Prague, and Mendel!

On Wednesday I took the train up to Kutna Hora, which is a little town (or more like a small city, I guess) around 30 miles southeast of Prague, to see the Kostnice bone church.

Look how cool!:









I almost used up my entire 1 GB memory card there! The entire church is decorated with human skeletal remains. The majority of them are plague victims from the 14th century, but some also died during the Hussite wars of the 15th century. The remains of approximately 40,000 people are stored in this ossuary. The chandelier you see in the first photo is made from every single bone in the human body. (Or so they say. I didn't really check.)

Aside from the bone church, Kutna Hora is also a really pretty town with a gorgeous Gothic cathedral: St. Barbara's Cathedral.

Here's a shot of the main square in Kutna Hora:



Thursday was a working day. I went to my second Czech museum, the Anthropos Institute (oooh, I'm having fun with the external linking today!) at the Moravian Museum in Brno. This is the museum:



I worked in the little orange building on the far left. The grad student who helped me with the skulls that day was really nice and we hit it off pretty well. She even treated me to lunch in an underground pub right next to the museum. It was great to have someone to hang out with, even if it was just for 1 day!

After I was done at the museum, I went around the corner to check out the Capuchin Crypt. (My second Capuchin Crypt this trip!) Jesus Christ, did this place frrreeeeak me out. I wasn't allowed to take any photos inside the place, which was just fine with me. I don't want the digital memories anyways! Now, most of you know that I've spent plenty of time up close and personal with lots of dead people (especially lately!) but for some reason, this place really gave me the creeps. Maybe because I was the only person (well, the only breathing person) inside the crypt at the time, maybe because the place was all low ceilings and dark, narrow passageways, maybe because they were still kind of fleshy and you could still make out what they sort of looked like in life, maybe because it was just so eerie and quiet...I don't know. But I didn't stay long!

The last time I was in Prague I touched this statue on the Charles Bridge:



So I was destined to return. And that's what I did yesterday. Actually, I'm not really sure if that's what touching the statue means. Everybody was touching it, so like a good sheep, I touched it too. Baaaa. People may touch it for luck or money instead, but I like the Trevi Fountain explanation, that touching it ensures that you'll return to Prague. And so far it works! (And yes, I touched it again.)

Prague was cold and foggy, as I think Prague should be.











Prague was also very crowded. (But still beautiful.)



One day isn't enough for Prague, even if you've been there before and already seen most of the important sights. I could spend one whole entire day in the Old Town Square looking at the Tyn Church.

Here's a golem:



Today I walked to the Augustian Abbey where Gregor Mendel lived and worked from 1843-1884. Mendel is generally considered the "father of modern genetics". The experiments he conducted on peas in his garden at the Abbey resulted in Mendel's Laws of Inheritance, on which every Anth 102 student is lectured and tested. Now the Abbey houses the Mendel Museum of Genetics.

This was the spot of Mendel's original experimental garden:



The window directly above the arch was Mendel's room at the Abbey. From this spot he was able to keep a close watch on his garden and his experiments. This was a really cool thing to be able to see. (Maybe I've been teaching Anth 102 for too long!)

Tomorrow I leave the Czech Republic and head down to Vienna for 1 week. My German is better than my Czech (but not by much ;), so it'll be nice to be able to read signs (and menus) again!

13 Comments:

At 4:03 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Jodi,

What great pictures!Is that a
Star of David hanging in the square?
I don't get it! What is it? I have more news but it's not for me to tell you. Send an e-mail to Alan.
love, Rochelle

 
At 4:16 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I've decide....when I'm gone, take my bones and decorate a room in your home, so I'll always be near.
Well....maybe not a good idea ):
Those churches definitely beat the one I saw in Rome!
How about a picture with you in it. The pictures are fabulous but I'd like to see your smiling face also.
I saw that Star of David also. Strange place..on a lamppost.
Glad everything is going well. Love xoxo

 
At 4:55 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

wow - can i use that bone church photo for my christmas card this year? now i wish i was there with you even more...

oh and it's the primitive form of rug hooking not the cheesy 70s style. it's a popular and traditional artform in these parts (yes mostly with old ladies but with my bday next week i'm just warming up the old rocking chair!)

easterngardengrrl

 
At 3:47 AM, Blogger Jodi said...

I sent an email to Alan. What's the news? More babies??

Ok, ok, ok. I'll be meeting up with a friend in Vienna this week, so hopefully there'll be opportunities for photos to be taken of me. I feel too silly holding up the camera at arms length to take pictures of myself alone! Maybe I should just superimpose a picture of my face on some of the photos I post? Hee. That might be funny.

Old lady M, have you moved yet? What are your bday plans? I think I rughooked in my grade 4 art class. But that was in the cheesy 70s style, because it was actually the cheesy 70s.

Martin, tu eres un submarino!

 
At 10:59 AM, Blogger Jodi said...

I've just spent the last few hours walking around Vienna. Oh my, this city is all kinds of pretty. Maybe it's all the xmas lights everywhere (and I get very captivated and entranced by shiny things), but I think I could totally live here and be happy forever. Pretty, pretty, shiny city with good coffee and beer? Very nice.

 
At 7:05 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Jodi, your trip (well, the blog of it) is giving me shivers (mostly the good kind). Not to mention a fabulous education! Thanks for sharing. And yes, I agree that a pic of you would be lovely.

love, easterngardengrrl's ma
(and rug hooker from the cheezy 70s when she wasn't an old lady)

 
At 7:42 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

hmm, i don't know about you moving to vienna, guess i'd rather visit you there than in that flat place you live now, however i think a move to the maritimes would be better for your soul...

haven't moved yet, move the day after i get back from the big smoke at the end of the month. will send pics of new ocean home when i'm in it.

bday plans involve a make your own sushi party and a few rounds of scrabble - wish you were here. sushi's not the same w/o u. m

 
At 8:00 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Jodes,

I'm so glad to hear that you are another shutterbug out of control. Good on ya for snapping almost 1GB worth of photos at the bone cathedral. I am so excited to see the pics in their entirety, yes all 1GB of them, when you get back to TO. Poor Andre will have to sit through that entire session:).

I am going to magnify that picture of the chandelier with all the bones in the body and investigate that claim further -- i'll get back to you on that.

 
At 12:53 PM, Blogger daniel said...

I second the request to have more photos of you in them. Remember your contract with us: you must photograph your use of the shapecam for our web site!

I'm surprised the street artist didn't ask for a payment for the photo of those caricatures. Some of them can get a bit testy if you photograph their copyright infringements...

Glad you've had a smooth trip thus far. You've missed out on some cold, icy weather here - it would remind you of the Great White North, eh.

-d

 
At 6:38 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Ridiculous! How can some place I've never been be so nice? Does this mean I have to leave the futon? I am afraid to go out. I don't know what's out there at all. Is it safe? Will I like it?

If cousin Phil were blogging, he's ask: What's the best place to go in Vienna? What's the best beer? Which bone in the human skeleton is the best? Which skeleton church is the best?

And of course, he'd tell you to eat the f'in soup!

Ed is making a mushroom barley soup and yesterday he tried a latke recipe with a pear-cranberry sauce instead of apple sauce. So freakin' good. I know you want to stay in Vienna, but you should come back to my futon, where it's safe and familiar and all the foods are. ------------missing you, R

 
At 11:49 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

hi Jodi,

Again,the news is not for me to tell but maybe you can guess. No, the baby is the only baby for now!! You will see the baby on the holidays. What great pictures!I'm not surprised to see how beautiful Vienna is. They really know how to do it over there!!! Let's see a smiling face. Your beautiful,smiling face that is!! love till later,Rochelle

 
At 2:04 PM, Blogger Jodi said...

Leibowitz -- tell cousin Phil that I'll be back in town mid-January ;) Save me some soup! It's the best! Phil agrees!

Rochelle, I heard the news from Alan. Very happy! We'll have lots to celebrate!

 
At 8:25 AM, Blogger Unknown said...

It so interesting! I really enjoyed reading story about your trip. There are not many places in the world, about which I can say I love them. I have to confess, that Prague is ONE of those. The Capital of the Czech Republic Prague is called "Maticka Praha" by the Czech people which means "little mother Prague". It is one of the most wonderful cities in Europe especially due to its historical sights such as the Prague Castle , Charles Bridge or the Old Town Square! Also find good accommodation is not a problem, even in old center, there are a plenty of Prague hotels for any budget. Where ever you looked there’s history and character, which many cities are lacking.
Unfortunately I haven't enough time to visit Kutna Hora. But it won't be my last trip to Czech Republic definitely.

 

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